Not like “time to recharge” dead, either. More like “lead plates melted together” dead.
As I was on my way home from work tonight (I wasn’t even on the clock; I just needed to use the Internet connection to set my Powerbook back up) I stopped at a Subway. When I went to leave, my car gave the clickclickclickclickclick sound characteristic of a discharged battery.
Over the next two minutes, though, the entire car went dead. No lights (exterior, interior, or idiot). No power locks. No trunk release. No alarm. Not even enough juice to activate the solenoid that releases the key from the ignition switch when the car is in park. That made things interesting for a while, while I tried to figure out how to get into the trunk when the key wouldn’t come out of the ignition.
[A side note: For some time now, my car has sometimes refused to let me take my key out of the ignition. Apparently, it doesn’t believe that the transmission is actually in Park; usually, rapidly pressing the shift release button forces it to let the key go, but sometimes it takes a while. Sometimes a well-placed blow to the bottom of the steering column would release the key. I found out today why this is so: there is, apparently, a manual release inside the steering column, and an impact could press it. There’s an access hole for that purpose, with cover, but I find it easier to slide my hand into the steering column and press the button manually.]
Here’s the weirdest part, though: I was completely unable to jumpstart the car. Even with the two batteries directly connected, it was as though the jumper cables weren’t there.
After that attempt to jumpstart the car, I called around to various tow truck companies. They wanted $100+ to take the car the ten miles back to the house, and that doesn’t even cover the actual cost of repairs. This is when I learned that my insurance policy, despite what I had been led to believe, does not have roadside assistance. They reimburse up to $50 for towing. Note again that the cost would be >$100, with the remainder coming out of pocket. And that assumes that they actually reimburse.
At that point, I had no idea what to do, so I called Dad.
He was able to leave work early and show up. On the way, we came up with a plan that would (potentially) save the repair cost. When he got there, we traveled to Wal-Mart and bought a new battery for the car. The rationale was this: if it’s the battery, yay, problem solved. If it’s anything else, at least it should get the car back to the house, where the problem can be dealt with.
We also bought an adjustable wrench. This piece of shit bent when trying to remove the first bolt holding a crossbar on. We ended up going back to the house to retrieve Dad’s tools, including a ratchet and the appropriate size wrench and socket.
It is most definitely not an easy task to take the battery out of a 2000 Grand Prix. Even after taking off the crossbar and moving or detaching all of the cables, hoses, clamps, and doohickeys (now that’s a technical term for you) in the vicinity, the battery still needs to be turned on its side in order to be removed. Installing the new one is not much easier, though in this case the new battery had a handle, which helped.
At long last, the new battery was installed and the car was running. At some point, we realized that the battery was not a no-maintenance, sealed battery, as I had thought, but rather a standard battery that requires filling.
Guess what neither of us had done since we bought the car? [In my defense, I honestly thought it was a sealed battery.]
With much trepidation we opened the access panels on the battery. The lead plates were exposed and partially melted, and there was practically no liquid inside. In retrospect, I’m surprised it didn’t explode or melt earlier.
Now, with the new battery, the car is running like a champ again. I’m still going to take it to the dealer ASAP to make sure it’s not something more serious (like an alternator problem or faulty wiring) but I think the problem is solved.